Board and Trains

Sometimes owning a dog on top of the responsibilities of everyday life can be overwhelming; especially when that dog has behavior issues.  In a perfect world dog owners would proactively prevent behavior issues from developing, but sometimes with even the best of intentions they pop up any ways.  Sometimes, owners end up with a adopted dog that came with behavior problems, sometimes being prone to behavior issues runs in a particular bloodline, and other times owners missed a warning signs before it became a problem.

While most of these behaviors can easily be solved in the home by owner’s that have a little extra time to practice this isn’t always the case and that is where Board and Trains work best.

What is a board and train?

 Think of a Board and train as a doggy boot camp.  They are either in kennel settings or done in home types of settings.  Good board and trains allow your dog to be the trainer’s dog for the duration of the board and train which allows your dog to receive intensive and consistant training from a professional whose accurate timing can speed up your dog’s training.

Who should consider Board and Trains?

  • Life Changes: People who are having life changes like expecting a new baby or moving. Instead of being overwhelmed by trying to fit in training with a new baby or big move with a board and train you can pick up your dog with a new set of skills and better manners.  This not only doesn’t add to the stress, but encourages positive feelings with a fresh start from your dog.
  • Big Problems:  They are also great for owners who are feeling overwhelmed by a major behavior issues like aggression;because they give the owner a head start in training.  If the dog has had a few weeks of solid practice of obedience skills under their belt it will be much easier for the owner to be able to successfully implement the behavior modification program.
  • Non-Resolving Problems: If you have been struggling with a behavior issue and you have been practicing all the exercises your trainer sends you home with and your still not seeing results it might be worth asking about a board and train to give you a boost.

How to pick a board and train?

  • Word of mouth: Talk to friends and family who have well behaved dogs, if none of them have recommendations reach out to your regular dog trainer (Not all trainers offer this service). Another great resource for finding a good board and train would be talk to your vet.
  • Go there: Talk to the trainer at the facility or where the dog will be staying.  If the board and train facility has 15 dogs your dog likely won’t be receiving enough one on  one time to make a huge difference verses a trainer that has 3 dogs per employee your dog will get more one on one time.
  • Picking dates: Make sure your dog trainer will be in town while the board and train is going on, many have interns so be sure to clarify who will actually be working with your dog.
  • The proof is in the pudding.  If you see other dogs that have been through the training program and they are still struggling with basic skills like not jumping or pulling then keep looking.
  • Good Board and Trains range in price, so don’t think that the more expensive ones are always the best option.

Share with us your feedback about any experiences that you have had with a board and train.  Was it good?  Did you see the results you were hoping for?

Boarding Aggressive Dogs

Socialization 

Socialization

Too many dogs suffer from the terminal illness of under socialization…

As a trainer I often meet confused dog owner’s stating that they thought they did everything right socializing their young puppy.  Often times it comes down to three major socialization misunderstandings which are stopping to early, believing that socializing with the other dog in the home or a select 3-4 dogs or people is enough and incorrectly socializing your puppy.


Many owners are under the impression that socialization begins and ends with puppy class and while puppy class is a fabulous way to develop manners, healthy bite inhibition, and get wonderful feedback on your puppy’s socialization status socialization should begin before 8 weeks and continue until at least 8 months of age.   Giant breeds that emotionally develop slower should ideally be socialized even longer.  Socialization should begin at the breeder’s where they are introduced to sounds, smells and people who carefully handle the puppy and help it become prepared for the new home.  Good breeders will be able to explain their socialization protocols and will likely encourage you to continue with their plan for socialization.  Once home and before puppy class begins your puppy should have lots of new visitors especially children and men. 

Hosting a puppy party or a game night is a great way to increase the number of positive experiences your dog has with people.  This is practically true if there are not children in the home. 

The next step is puppy classes.  Good puppy classes are done in clean indoor facilities that are regularly sanitized and have vaccinated dogs and puppies.  Trainers in puppy classes can quickly spot gaps in socialization giving you early indication if you need to focus on additional socialization, plus puppies will learn how to be gentle with humans and other puppies.  This is also a great time for

After completion of vaccinating your puppy trips to dog friendly retail stores like murdoch’s, jax’s, playgrounds and drop-in classes at least twice a week will help ensure that your continues to maintain or improve his socialization while his personality continues to develop into adolescents.


Another comment I frequently hear is “My dog was well socialized; she had plenty of opportunity to play with the other dog in the home and spends a lot much of the day with our family.”  That isn’t socializing.  It’s just not, I’m sorry, I wish it were that easy, but your dog has to have an opportunity to meet at least 20 new people a week.  Your dog should regularly be allowed to have positive interactions with men and children whom your dog is not familiar with and if you have a breed that can be aloof then you should double the number of people your dog meets.


Bad socializing is often the result of very well meaning dog owners.  Socialization isn’t all about exposing your dog to as many new things as possible or exposing your dog to as many new people as possible it  must be done in a methodically and practical way.  If your dog is hiding under a chair in puppy class you are creating issues NOT preventing them.   When socializing your puppy be sure to look at it from your puppy’s point of view…. receiving treats from a 7 year old girl creates a positive association ensuring that your puppy will look forward to the next time he meets her while being sat on by a 7 year old girl may result in a attempt to avoid the 7 year old girl.  Meeting a and greeting a large friendly adult dog may result in learning proper manners  while being snapped at or stepped on by a large adult dog may create a fear which may later turn into defensive aggression. 

Consider the quality of all socialization opportunities and closely watch to see how your puppy responds to each.  If you are putting the time into socialization quality of the socialization matters and it MUST be positive.


Keep up the socializing and feel  free to come watch our classes visitors and prospective puppy buyers are always encouraged to come watch.

To learn more about how to properly socialize:click here

House Training Tips

Heeler puppy quote
First things first make a very clear constant schedule. Make sure the whole family agrees on it.   Your schedule must be the same, everyday. 

This should include:

  • A potty break as soon as they wake up.

  • Never leave the food bowl down.  Feed your dog and if they don’t eat pick up the food after thirty minutes

  • Two feedings a day

  • A potty break after each meal

  • Kennel when unable to supervise the more we can catch them in the act the better.

  • A potty break before bed time

If you have a very young dog or a puppy kennel training might be a great opportunity to address house training along with other Behavior challenges such as trash can diving and chewing too!click here for kennel training


A very old or very young dog may not be able to hold it for very long. Consider these questions when determining this:

  • Does he or she hold it in the kennel? 

Do they seem to know when they are looking for a place to go?


Tips

  • Clean accidents with an enzymatic cleanser to minimize odors that might attract the dog back to the same spot.

  • Once your dog is house trained in your home, he may still have accidents when visiting others’ homes. That’s because dogs need to generalize their learning to new environments. Just because they seem to know something in one place does NOT mean that they’ll automatically know that thing everywhere. You’ll need to watch your dog carefully when you visit new places together and be sure to take him out often.

  • Likewise, if something in your dog’s environment changes, he may have a lapse in house training. For example, a dog might seem completely house trained until you bring home a large potted tree—which may look to him like a perfect place to lift his leg!

  • Never leave your dog unsupervised, until he/she is house trained. It’s okay to give them a kong in the kennel while you take a shower.

  • Give your dog a treat after going potty outside.

  • Don’t bring your dog inside right after she goes potty, some dogs will start to hold it in hopes of going for a longer walk.
  • If you would like to teach your dog to ring a bell to alert you when they have to go out please start here:  bell training
  • Bennett Canine Training
picking dog food, puppy dog food

What Should I Feed

picking dog food, puppy dog food

Adopting a new dog as an incredibly exciting experience whether you’ve just purchased a new puppy from breeder or you adopted from your local shelter. As exciting as it is your bound to have lots of questions about properly taking care of your dog.

One of the most common questions that I am asked of new pet parents is “What should I feed my new pet?” It can be confusing navigating the waters and everyone seems to have a bias when it comes to dog food.  Many shelters and vet clinics receive kickbacks from dog food companies, so how do you know you are feeding the right product.

First understand everyone you ask will have a different opinion on the right dog food, but what is important is that you take a few minutes to research what the right food for YOUR dog is.

Choosing a dog food is a personal decision and a lot of people feel very strongly about their pets nutrition, for good reason. Some people swear by raw diets only and other swear by a good quality kibble.

I am going to give you some guidelines that will help guide you on your journey of finding a great dog food that should be easy to follow.

Choose a dog food that has meat as a first ingredient.

While there is some debate on whether a grain free diets is best for all dogs it is defiantly agreed on that meat should be the first ingredient in any quality dog food. Look at the list of ingredients not just the front of the bag. Keep in mind that ingredients are listed by weight. Ingredients that contain large amounts of moisture (such as beef, poultry, chicken, or fish) are likely to be at the top of the list because of the moisture content. Ingredients further down the list may offer even more key nutrients such as protein but may weigh less because the water has already been removed for a dry pet food. When reading the ingredients also remember that ingredients labeled “by-products” include highly digestible and nutritious organs, such as the liver and lungs. They do NOT include things like hair, horns or hooves, as advertising gimmicks would have you believe

Consider special special needs.

 A giant breed puppy will need a dog food that has the correct calcium to phosphorus ratio. Giant breeds need slightly less calcium. Too much calcium can also increase the incidence of any one of those very painful developmental bone diseases. The challenge is to provide just enough calcium to reduce the risk of bone problems while supplying levels that allow for maximum growth potential.  As long as you are feeding a balanced diet, never supplement a large and giant breed puppy with a mineral supplement.  Look for a 1:1 ratio.

An overweight dog may need a low-calorie dog food, Consider changing your dog’s food for a veterinary diet designed to tackle obesity; these foods contain more bulk and less calories, so that you can tackle your dog’s weight without having to dramatically reduce the size of their meals.

Feeding active Sporting Dog may need a high protein and high fat blend. Fat is the active dog’s primary source of energy. This should combine with highly digestible ingredients to provide the right nutrition for highly active dogs and to promote weight gain during convalescence.

What about Raw diets?

Raw diets are great they may require more prep time and it is very important that you balance the raw food that you feed. There are two primary types of raw diets BARF and PREY.

About PREY

The prey model raw diet mimics the prey killed by wolves in the wild where a wolf would eat the entire animal, meat, bones, organs and all.  The prey model does not consider dogs to be omnivores and believe that they do not need vegetables, fruits, and additional supplements.

About BARF

The Bones and Raw Food (BARF) diet was developed by Australian veterinarian Ian Billinghurst. Billinghurst suggest that dogs would thrive on a diet based on what canines ate before they became domesticated. The BARF diet is more balanced and provides your dog meats, bone, fruits, vegetables, and supplements .

Just as important as what you feed your dog you should consider how you feed your dog. If you just purchased a new puppy or dog consider hand feeding through the first three weeks.  This not only is a great way to build a bond, but it allows you to practice important skills like obedience, luring or shaping.

enrichment feeder

Enrichment Feeder

Don’t waste meal times by just tossing your kibble in a bowl and food bowl and a enrichment feeder cost about the same. By using a enrichment feeder you will be turning meal time into a opportunity to provide your dog with a mental workout.

 

Check out threes excellent resources:

Click here for help picking quality kibble

Click here to learn more about raw food.

shelter dog adopted food

 

Benefits of Hand Feeding

 

Hand-feeding is a very important element to the foundation of training your dog. It isn’t necessary for all dogs, but it most definitely can help with all dogs.

Who do I recommend hand feeding to? Well, the answer to that is everyone. Hand feeding your dog is like putting primer on before you paint.   If you’ve adopted a new dog it helps to lay the foundation so that your dog is ready to learn and helps to quickly develop a bond.  It also increases  work ethic which makes training much easier.


When a dog’s life depends on it because of the lack of socialization or a lack of training hand feeding is no longer optional. A dog that growls at people in the home, a dog with a history of aggression or a dog with extreme fear would all be examples of a dog that hand feeding maybe a requirement of successful behavior treatment.


Dog food has monetary value to dogs. No, I don’t mean dogs go shopping at Petco with bags of kibble, but imagine that a piece of kibble is the equivalent to a $1 bill, a moist training treat is the equivalent to a $10 bill and a piece of diced hot dog is the equivalent to a $100 bill. 
Now, imagine I asked you to run 10 ft for $10 would you do it?

The answer may vary depending on what you’re willing to do for that amount of money. Okay, now I’m asking you to run 10 miles for $10. Chances are if you said “yes” the first time you’re going to say “no” to the second time.

Just like humans, dogs vary on what they’re willing to do for different dollar amounts. In humans we refer to how hard somebody is willing to work for a specific dollar amount as work ethic. Now imagine that there is a college student whose parents give them an unlimited amount of allowance. How hard do you think that college student would work if they were asked to go get a job at McDonald’s versus somebody who had no other source of income?

Feeding out of a food bowl is the equivalent of a free financial allowance. You can bet that this free allowance will affect your dog’s work ethic. That’s okay for some dogs. Some dogs have a naturally high work ethic and will do a lot for just a tiny treat or a tiny piece of kibble, but if the dog has a major behavior problem or struggling with socialization your dog will need every ounce of work ethic we can get. 


Handfeeding doesn’t have to be one kibble at a time.  You can handfeed a handful at a time if you are in a hurry. 

 


Barking and Lunging Dog

“My dog barks and lunges when he sees other dogs. He is really friendly with them when I let him interact off leash. What should I do?” 

It sounds like you have a reactive dog. Reactivity is a way trainers describe dogs that over react to a trigger; such as another dog, people, cars, sounds or anything else that causes your dog to react. 

Owning a reactive dog comes with special challenges and frustrations.  Walking a reactive dog can often feel like a chore instead of an enjoyable experience. Reactive dog owners may find themselves experiencing a flurry of emotion ranging from embarrassment to frustration.    

 

What owners of reactive dogs need to remember is when a dog is being reactive, the dog is also experiencing a flurry of emotion. 

When a dog barks and lunges those behaviors are symptoms of an emotional response. If you change the emotion the behavior will fix itself. 

I know, that sounds way too simple, but it’s possible through counterconditioning. Counterconditioning changes the way a dog feels about a trigger through positive association. Counterconditioning alone will definitely reduce the intensity and frequency of these types of behaviors, but alone they will not fully solve them. 

Many dogs haven’t been taught how to control their behavior and they behave in the way that feels most natural to them. 

Another common trait most reactive dog share is a lack of doggy impulse control. Dogs are motivated by what feels most rewarding, so if chasing a squirrel yields a rush of positive emotion then that’s what they will dog.  Impulse control is what gives the dog the ability to hold a sit stay when a squirrel comes by or maintain a heel when passing another dog.  Dogs aren’t born with impulse control and it must be taught gradually.  To learn how to teach your dog impulse control:  click here

When to train and when to manage, understanding thresholds. 

Reactive dogs have what trainers often refer to as a threshold which is when a dog’s behavior changes due to a trigger.  Unlike the threshold of your front door, an emotional or behavior threshold doesn’t stay in the same place; it can change from minute to minute and from one situation to the next.  Training classes help owners to recognize when the threshold changes.  When dog’s are over thresh hold they are no longer in a place where they can learn and that becomes a time to manage instead of train.  It is a good idea to train behind thresh hold or before your dog reacts.   To get a better understanding of thresholds: https://www.whole-dog-journal.com/issues/16_4/features/across-a-threshold_20726-1.html

It is best for a reactive dog to get a little bit of training either in a private session at a facility or in a in home setting prior to attending a group class.   These private classes help owners to understand when their dog is struggling with a emotional response and teach owners how to help their dogs through it. Just bringing a reactive dog to a group class without having these skills is guaranteed to be frustrating for the student. They’re not going to be able to pay attention to what the trainer is saying over their dog’s reactive behavior.   It’s also going to be stressful and frustrating for the dog. 

lunging dog

Boss during a protection training session

Take The Pulling Test

Do you want to know how good at loose leash walking your dog is?  The answer might surprise you.
When we are testing our dog’s leash manners were going to be asking our dog a series of questions. Our dog will answer the questions based on the way he responds to each exercise.
Choose the answer based on your dog’s response to the exercise

Walk your dog 10 steps and stop:
1. My dog was looking at me, so he knew I stopped.  He stopped to before taking the slack out of the leash
2. My dog didn’t know I stopped until he ran out of leash, but then he stopped and came back to me
3. My dog didn’t know I stopped until he ran out of leash and then he continued to pull

While walking your dog say his name several times:
1. As soon as I said my dog’s name he looked up at me and stayed focused on me for at least 5 Seconds afterwards.
2. When I said my dog’s name he continued to pull, but he did look back at me. The glance back was only for a second.
3.  My dog didn’t have a response to his name, maybe he’s deaf.

Walk 10 steps and then change directions repeat this two times:
1. My dog knew I was going to turn before I even turned, because he was already paying attention.
2. My dog wasn’t ready for the first turn, but was paying attention and ready for the second turn.
3. My dog wasn’t ready for either turn, he was already pulling and distracted by the time we were done turning.

Dogs that earned mostly ones:
Congratulations, you’ve got a job who is great on leash. This is the type of dog you can walk while holding a cup of coffee. Many dog owners dream of owning a dog like yours.

Dogs that are earned mostly twos:
Your dog has some great skills.   Your dog may occasionally pull hard for the most part you can enjoy walking your dog unless a big distraction pops up like a rabbit or squirrel. With just a little bit of training your dog will be an All-Star.

Dogs that earned mostly threes:
Your dog is a bit of a party animal. He’s looking for fun and he’s highly distracted. Consider getting in front clip no pull harness to use for the first few weeks of training. You may want to start practicing your loose leash walking in the house or in the backyard for a few days before you take it outdoors.

Follow our loose leash walking tips Wednesday on our Facebook page. Exercise each week. If you follow along your dogs will have great loose leash walking skills in no time.

blue mastiff

See the loose leash?

​Socializing Puppy to the World

 

Recently I went to a dog show where I actually had enough time to sit and watch the other competitors.  The show offered conformation, temperament testing, bite work and obedience.  The temperament testing is especially fun.  You are not given any information as to what will be involved in the temperament testing, so you can’t practice for it.  This year test included obstacles such as heeling over a wooden pallet and having your dog stand on tire. While watching the temperament testing it  was clear obedience skills had been taught, but it was apparent to me how to many breeders, trainer and pet owners are skipping one of the most fun, easy and critical parts of creating a solid dog environmental confidence building.  
 
At Bennett Canine Training we encourage puppy owners to try new obstacles each week.   We want to make sure our dogs are comfortable in a number of scenarios whether you’re getting on an elevator, walking across the slippery floor or getting your dog onto a scale at the vet clinic environmental confidence-building plays a role as how confident your dog is in the future. Dogs need to be comfortable  in the world around them or won’t matter how much time you spend teaching obedience. 
 
Here is a check list for getting your dog confident: 
Playgrounds, try to go when there are less then 4 kids playing.  Yes, we know you want to expose your dog to kids, but if there’s 25 kids on the playground your puppy is going to be overwhelmed.  Allowing your puppy to become overwhelmed would do more harm then good.  


 Box stores, such as Home Depot or Murdoch’s Farm.  Again,  you don’t go when they are busy. Your puppy is already going to be exposed to automatic open doors, slippery floors, bright lights and if you’re smart you’ll find some obstacles in the store like encouraging your puppy to jump on a rolly cart or look for treats under some shelves. Plus, the employees and customers shopping will want to meet your puppy too. 


 
The Great Outdoors, pull up Google Maps and find a lake that you can hike to. Make sure that it is not too far. Most young puppies can’t keep up on Long hikes. When introducing your puppy to water use toys and treat and don’t force your puppy into the water. Let them wade around and get comfortable. If you have an older dog they may follow your older dog into the water. Encourage them to walk across Fallen logs and balance on rocks.  


 
Livestock, we recognize that not everybody has access to livestock. If you look online you can find some sort of livestock event near you or at least close enough you can make a day trip out of it. If there’s a horse show in your area bring your puppy. Keep your puppy on a leash and keep it close to you. Bring lots of treats and be respectful of livestock’s space. A lot of livestock owners aren’t going to watch your puppy to close so make sure you ask first. 


  
Machinery,  many adult dogs are not comfortable around loud machinery. It is important to get your dog really comfortable with these types of things. You never know if you’ll be at a dog show and a tractor will go by.  Taking your puppy to Harley Dealership, truck stop or lumber yard would all be great options to introduce your puppy to focusing on you around machinery.  


If your puppy ever seems overwhelmed during this process don’t push your puppy.  Allow your puppy to observe from father away from what is scaring him.  If you still see fear or fear is lasting for more then one week please contact a professional dog trainer to help you with the process. 


Getting your dog into theses environments will go a long way in helping to ensure you have a great pet that can enjoy going places with you or to have a outstanding working or trial dog.  Don’t skip this important step and be sure to have fun and get creative.   

Puppy’s First Bath Time

 

It’s bath time and your dog is nowhere to be found. Once you find him, you have to grab by the collar and lead him to the bath tub. When he reluctantly gets into the bathtub and then mopes throughout the entire process. Does this sound familiar to you? 


It doesn’t have to be this way especially if you are lucky enough to be able to start from puppy hood. 


 
Let’s think about bath time for a second. Most puppies are introduced to a bath for the first time by either getting dropped off at a grooming facility or being put in a bathtub full of water then having water poured over them.  No one can explain to the puppy what’s happening, but it can definitely be very scary for them. It’s an unusual experience and yields very little rewards.  Why should a puppy like bath time? 

All too often dogs learn early on bath time is scary or at least really sucks! 
 
It’s time to switch up how we introduce puppies to bath times
Day one: Put your puppy in an empty bathtub and feed him his breakfast. Once he’s done with breakfast take him out and let him run around and play. 
 
Day two: Put about 1 inch of water in the bathtub.  The bath water should be at a comfortable temperature. Smear a little bit of peanut butter on the wall for your puppy to lick off.   Add water proof dog toys like tennis balls, squeaky toys and add a couple of floating treats. Set your timer for 5 minutes and sit with your puppy.   Don’t worry you don’t have to get in the bathtub for this one. 
 
Day three: Repeat the steps for day 2, but this time splash just a tiny bit of water at your puppy not at his face just towards your puppy.  Reward directly after splashing. Do this several times at about the two-minute Mark.   
 
Day four: Repeat steps 3 with more splashing. Don’t be crazy keep it fun for your puppy. You can even cup your hands and for a little bit of water over your dog’s back and shoulders if he seems comfortable with it. 
 
Day six: Repeat step 4 and this time gently pick up one foot at a time. Give your dog a treat after each foot is picked up.  If your puppy tries to struggle and get away from picking up his feet then stop and practice handling his feet outside of the bathtub more before you try in the bathtub. 
 
After making it through all the steps you can increase how much water is in the bathtub. Remember it’s always ok to go back a step if your puppy seems uncomfortable at any point in time. In fact we recommend it it’s better to spend three days on Step 1 then it is to get to step 4 and have your puppy scared.  If at any point in time your puppy seems scared you need to go back a step. You’ve got plenty of time to teach your puppy how to love baths. 
 
If you want to learn more about teaching your dog to absolutely love grooming then you should visit our drop-in grooming classes they’re only $15 to join.

mastiff

Escaping Dog

I’m often surprised that people are not more concerned when their dog escapes.  Besides fear of receiving a summons from Animal Control there are a lot of dangers present even in a calm neighborhood.  Dogs may run into suburban wildlife like raccoons and coyotes.  They may be hit by a car.  There is also a strong possibility they may have a run in with a leashed neighborhood dog.   Most dogs act very different if they are running loose and their owners aren’t around. If your dog is escaping you should take corrective action ASAP.


Management (making him want to be in the yard)

Dogs need activities to keep them busy. If we don’t provide them appropriate activities and keep their minds stimulated, your intelligent, healthy dog will find things to do on his own. Normal dog behavior includes chewing, jumping, digging, running the fence line, and tearing things apart.

Bringing your dog inside when you aren’t home is a sure fire way to keep your dog from getting out as well.  If you feel bad about leaving your dog in all day then a dog walker or doggy daycare might be just the solution for you!


Games that utilize your dog’s nose are great exercise.

 A very large portion of a dog’s brain controls their olfactory function, therefore, the more we create activities where they get to use their nose, the more stimulated and tired they will get.

-Keep lots of different things for him to do in the yard.  Fill your rubber kong with goodies, and have the treat dispensing toy outside too.  Change what they are filled with daily, so they don’t get bored.

 -As he gets better and better at finding and playing with those goodies, you can hide them in more and more challenging locations.  This will help tier out his mind much faster.

-A tired dog is a good dog.  Add exercise into your dog’s daily routine and make sure that he has plenty of time to run. Maybe go to a big fenced in baseball field, use a longer leash when out for walks, or try flirt pole training for your dog.


Fencing should be able to keep your dog in even if he wants to get out.

Check your gate regularly and teach your kids to as well.  If your kids are not good about securing the gate consider using a lock with a key, so you know when the gate is being opened. (The kids will have to get the key from you)

Inspect your fence and look for broken pickets.  These can be replaced pretty easily and you can replace the single picket.  If one picket is broken your dog can easily break more while you are at work for the day. I’m sure you have heard the saying good fences make good neighbors.

If your dog is going up and over the fence coyote rollers maybe a excellent solution.

For information about coyote rollers: click here

Keeping your dog safely secured in your home and yard is one of the most important responsibilities of being a responsible pet owner and depending on where you live there maybe low-cost options for help with building fence for your dog.