Why you should consider training with a long-line leash

20181208_1352265739791149893030729.jpgLong-line leashes are a very under valued training tool.  I encourage all my students to try to use them.
Why should you consider a long-line leash?
• Helps work on loose leash walking-  If we go with the notion that loose leash walking means keeping slack in the leash; while “Heel” means the dogs shoulder to your legs than a long-line gives your dog more freedom to walk without pulling.  Therefore your dog doesn’t get to practice pulling as frequently.

Here is a link if you want to learn more on teaching loose leash walking.
• You can practice teaching your dog to come to you.  Long-lines are excellent way to build a reliable recall safely.  They are light enough your dog doesn’t know he is on leash, but it ensures that you can get your dog to come back to you 100 percent of the time you are using it.

Here is a link to teaching dogs to come when called.
• This is a great way to let your dog go for a run while following the leash laws.  Your dog can run all around you while you take your daily walk getting loads more exercise.  Plus, a tired dog will also pull less.
• Great way to help your dog practice stay-  You can safely add distance and your dog has less chance of self-rewarding if they break a stay.

Here is how to teach stay.
What is a long-line leash? 
Well, it should be a light cotton line between 10-30 feet.  It is different from a retractable leash in that retractable leashes require pressure in order to extend; which means that your dog is being rewarded for pulling.  They pull and receive more length in their leash.  Where as in a long line leash your dog has a given amount of space to go.
Long-line leash tips: Sometimes getting started with a long-line can make you feel like a tangled mess.  Try getting a 10-15 foot leash until you get comfortable using your long-line leash.  Also, don’t feel like you have to hold the full leash in your hand.  Just hold the slack and one hand and use the others to collect the slack enough, so your dog doesn’t get tangled.  If your in open space you only have to hold the end.

 

img_20181206_095006_0026016428249952444706.jpg

 

New puppy- When to start socializing

Did you know a puppies brain chemistry actually changes around 12 weeks old?

While you can teach dogs or puppies older missing this window is a huge mistake. I often here people say things like, my vet said not to take my puppy anywhere until he:
a. has all of his vaccinations

b. is six months old

But this is no longer supported by the AVMA!

What about risks of parvo?

Good breeders or puppy fosters for rescues/shelters will have the puppies in a clean environment and start the socialization before 8 weeks old. The mothers will be vaccinated; which means they will pass down some antibodies to the puppies through their colostrum in their milk. Puppies from good breeders and good rescues/shelters will additionally have their first round of parvo and distemper vaccines to boost their immunity even further.

Puppies should never be taken to the dog park, but good puppy classes use special parvocidal cleaning agents that kill parvo (not all cleaners do.) and they ensure other puppies in the class are vaccinated also.

Doing this allows puppies to socialize safely with a very small risk of illness.

The number 1 leading causes of behavior problems is lack of proper early socialization. Poorly socialized puppies turn into dogs who are afraid of everything new. Some dogs end up shy, others react with aggressive displays towards new people and dogs.

Poorly socialized puppies turn into dogs who are afraid of everything new. Some dogs end up shy, others react with aggressive displays towards new people and dogs.

Unfortunately, some veterinarians, shelter staff and breeders are still behind the times regarding the risks of early socialization vs. the risk of disease. It’s easy not to keep up with all the new information coming out.

When the critical window of socialization is missed it is SO much harder to go back and work to desensitize your dog to people, dogs or the world. You can never make such a big impact on your dog as you can in puppyhood, and some dogs that missed socialization, may never fully recover.

You can never make such a big impact on your dog as you can in puppyhood, and some dogs that missed socialization, may never fully recover. These days, dogs are at greater risk of euthanasia for behavior problems than of communicable diseases.

As a puppy parent its your job to stay current on information about your puppy’s future.

Here are some great links to help you with your research!

Please do your own research and don’t wait a day longer than you have too.

http://veterinarymedicine.dvm360.com/early-puppy-socializat…

http://4pawsu.com/vaccination.htm

http://www.dogster.com/…/the-vaccination-vs-socialization-d…

http://m.petmd.com/…/waiting-until-after-vaccinations-too-l…

http://www.simplybehaviour.com/the-neuroscience-of-critical…

Puppy Biting Solutions

If shortly after bringing your new puppy home it feels like there’s no safe place to hide your hands and feet from sharp puppy teeth you are not alone.

Yes, puppies are attracted to feet because they are at their level and feet move so they have to be caught. 🙂

I hope this will help you teach your puppy how to be gentle with his teeth and stop the biting.

Here are some stuff you’ll need to pick up from the store to make the process go a little smoother:

  • At least two puppy kongs
  • Peanut butter or if there are allergies try honey
  • A toy on a string such as a rope toy, or squeaky toy tied to a long rope. (This is a special training toy so don’t leave it out) only use it when it is time to train.

Examples of toys on strings

Before we can teach our puppies not to bite we need to teach them that human skin is very fragile. This works towards teaching bite inhibition.

Why shouldn’t we just skip to training our puppy not to bite?

Well, as tempting as that is bite inhibition is very important for puppies to learn.

At some point in your dog’s life time he may feel uncomfortable or painful.  Bite inhibition has to be taught so that in cases such as a vet examination when a dog may feel the need to bite they understand how hard they can bite without actually hurting somebody. This could be the difference between a vet tech receiving stitches or just a wet arm.

Training Step 1

Teaching your puppy to be gentle.

1.Grab your supplies for this you’re going to need to have either peanut butter or honey.

2.Put a little bit of honey or peanut butter on the back of your hand.

3. Then sit on your puppies level which could be on the ground or if you allow your puppy on the couch on the couch.

4. Show your puppy the tasty treat on the back of your hand. As your puppy starts to lick the back of your hand repeat gentle over and over as your puppy licks.

If at any point in time you feel your puppy’s teeth.

Say “YIKE” as high pitched as you can.

“Yike” is not a cue word, because it doesn’t tell your puppy what to do. “Yike” is also not a replacement for the word no.

We are using “Yike” simply to distract your puppy for a millisecond. Once your puppy moves away from your hand with his mouth stand up and wash your hands.

This ends the session.

Doing this will teach your puppy that if he’s rough he misses out on a reward.

Do this 1-2 times a day.

When puppies are together with their littermates they learn the same way. When puppies are playing and one gets too rough the puppy getting bitten will yelp. Then no longer want to play with the rough sibling…. at least for a few minutes.

Training Step 2

Stopping biting in the act when biting feet or kids.

If you drop a treat can you have your puppy “leave it” on request?

Teaching leave it is really easy and will go a long way in curbing puppy biting.

If you still need to teach a good “Leave it” then click here and teach your puppy “leave it” first.

The next time your puppy gets nippy when your walking try this:

1. Freeze and stop walking.   Movement excites puppies and can be very rewarding so if you continue walking while your puppy attacks your feet you ARE rewarding the behavior.

2. Stay frozen and say “Leave it” and the second your puppy complies reward your puppy by allowing him to chase his toy on a string… a much more appropriate outlet for chase. Then ask for a sit and continue this play session for at least five minutes.

3. Then after a fun session of chase the actual toy provide your puppy with a stuffed and frozen kong. This will help bring your puppy back down to a calmer state of mind.

Training Step 3

Stopping biting during down time.

The next time you’re relaxing trying to watching television and your puppy tries to chew on you try this exercise:

1. Freeze with your arms crossed and no excessive movement. The more you move the more you are rewarding the puppy for nipping.

2. Say “leave it” in a calm clear tone. The second your puppy complies reward your puppy with a fun chase session with his toy on a string. After a good 1-2 minute chase session encourage your puppy to chew on stuffed and frozen kong toy.

When you know you plan on relaxing try to be proactive and exercise your puppy before sitting down to relax. Provide your puppy with a Kong stuffed with peanut butter and frozen or a puppy safe chew toy.

Training Step 3

Teach your puppy that biting loose friends.

Set up a training station somewhere like the living room floor.

Use a a tether attached to the leg of a coffee table. Put a dog bed and a kong within reach of your puppy and sit close. You can watch TV or play on your phone while you do this.

When your puppy starts nipping say “Yike” as high as you can and go sit on the couch. 5-10 minutes later comeback and repeat.

Still having trouble? You might have a management problem.

Here are some rules to follow that will make training your puppy not to bite go even more smoothly:

1. Don’t allow anyone in the home to use their hands as a toy for the puppy to chase or bite. Consistency is very important so your puppy has a clear understanding of what’s allowed.

2. Exercise your dog before you plan on sitting down to relax.

3. Keep a leash on the puppy if the puppy is nipping small kids so you can easily cut in if needed. Teach the kids to freeze or be a tree if the puppy jumps or nips. You can also play red light green light.

If your still having trouble try consulting with a professional trainer in your area.

Hyper Dogs

Let’s think about the dogs that we share our homes with.

Huskies are bred to pull a heavy load over rough terrain day in and day out. Boarder collies were bred to be physically and mentally active working along side their handlers day in and day out. The Cane Corso (KAH-neh-KOR-soh) was adapted as wild boar hunting, farming, livestock droving, and most famously guarding farmsteads. Beagles were bred to be enthusiastic and vocal rabbit hunters… so how do we meet the basic needs of our beloved canine counter parts?

It’s your job to provide your dog with his own little job, even if it is just doing tricks.

We must begin by recognizing that a yard… even a big one is not enough for even our lazier breeds such as pugs and bassets.

Yes, some dogs of even active breeds manage to acclimate to living the mundane resistance of being a house/yard dog… but for how long were we able to accept dogs being fed “kibble and bits” or “Ol’ Roy” as being good enough?

So, how do we ensure we are meeting our dogs needs?

*New Places, New Things– Your dog should get exposed to at least three new place, training exercises, or things every week. Things like climbing wood piles to earn a toy, going to agility classes, or going to a new lake or brewery keeps your dog mentally stimulated. Teach them a new trick or ask for a new behavior like climbing into a box.

Puppy Note: puppies should be exposed to at least 6 new things a week.

This will keep your dog socializing too!

*Mental Stimulation– Dogs should be provided with a minimum of 1 hour minutes of mental stimulation each and every day. This could include obedience training, trick training, hiding toys for your dog to find in the yard or kong toys. This should be a little longer for breeds like chihuahuas, border collies or shepherds.

Puppy note: Keep your training sessions short with puppies and remember you can do more frequent shorter sessions.

*Physical Exercise: This one varies more while some breeds like Dogue De Bordeauxs should have a minimum of an hour of physical enrichment every day such as two long walks or a short jog, other breeds like Boston Terriers or Labradors may need closer to three hours of very active physical exercise like swimming, running or agility. Dont let the idea of this must exercise overwhelm you. I did compile a list of ways that you can cheat on this if you don’t feel like it’s practical.Here is a link for ways to cheat if your too busy or not active enough to meet your dog’s needs:busy life & a board dog.

*Challenge Your Dog: Challenge your dog at least once a day. You can challenge your dog to swim out a little farther to get the ball, hid a toy in a hard spot, stay a little longer or climb a big rock or leave his favorite toy. Challenging your dog in this way builds a stronger bond and creates trust. It also helps your dog become confident and stay confident.

When dogs don’t have their basic needs met they begin to develop behavior issues. Most of the time when these behaviors are brought to my attention the behaviors are not surprising. Beagles barking and digging, Huskies climbing the fence and escaping and Border Collies herding the children around the yard it’s to be expected when their basic needs aren’t being satisfied. All too frequently very common behavior issues can often be solved by meeting your dog’s need.

Keep in mind that your dog is an individual. Senior Dogs may have special needs as do puppies. More so you can never physically tire out a border collie. However you can Tire them out mentally. Create your dogs stimulation plan by keeping your dog’s breed in mind. If you have a mix breed just use your best guess.

Be creative and use the world around you!

What Type of Collar Should I Use

Training collar

Martingale collar

Selecting the right collar for your dog may be a very personal choice so I am happy to see you are doing some research on the topic.

My two go to collar types are a well fit and safe harness or a martingale training collar.  Both can be used to prevent pulling, give a smaller handler more control of a larger dog, have multiple uses plus since neither promise the magical fix pulling in a instant they don’t cost a arm and a leg.


A martingale collar is sometimes referred to a limited slip collar.  These typically retail between $8.00- 12.50 so they can be very cost effective.  This is the type of collar I use for my personal dogs. 


What do I love about a martingale collar?

*They can be easily converted into a no-pull harness for extra hard pullers that haven’t been successful with regular no-pull harnesses.

*They require no time to put on

*They can be used as a flat collar when you are working on obedience training and used as a no-pull harness when you are in a hurry and “Don’t have time to train” or if you only want to train for half your walk

*Your dog CANT slip out of it.  If your dog is the type to pull backwards and slip his/her collar they can’t slip a correctly fit martingale.


Watch this video on how use/ fit a martingale collar:click here

Why might I not choose a martingale collar?

*I might opt for a well fit classic harness if my dog has kennel cough or pulls so hard that he is frequently coughing. 

*If you don’t feel comfortable having anything around your pet’s neck a harness maybe a better option.

*If your dog bounces around the car opt for a harness I’ll explain why a little farther down.

*5 months or under…. go with a harness


Harness come in all different shapes and all different types.  It is important to select a harness that is a safe fit for your dog as there are several types of harnesses made for trained dogs that untrained dogs that like to pullback may slip right out of.  Most classic style harness retail between $11.00 and $22.00 depending on brand and style.


What do I love about a classic harness?

*It is probably one of the most versatile training tools on the market.

* They are normally very, very adjustable which means that they can grow with your puppy for sometime and your can get the prefect fit.

* You can clip to the front o-ring and use them as a no-pull harness when you are in a hurry and “Don’t have time to train” or if you only want to train for half your walk

* Use a carabineer and they make great seat belts

*Clip them to the back clip for when you are working on loose leash walking or training.

*Dogs won’t slip a correctly fit harness  


Why I might not choose a harness?

*If your dog isn’t very comfortable being handled around the paws/ body standing for having a harness put on may cause extra stress

*If the dog is very shy of leash and being walked it is much more difficult to create a positive association while using a harness

*They can take a while to put on and take off

*Harnesses may cause your dog to chaff.


Here are few examples of classic harnesses.

Harness

Classic Harness

 

Bennett Canine Training

Classic Harness

Classic Harness

Classic Harness

 

Not all harness are created equal some harnesses are downright dangerous.  Harnesses that clip and snap over the shoulders like the two in the following photos should only be used on well trained dogs that have good leash walking skills and a strong recall.  They easily slip off over the head even when properly fit.

Here are some examples of harnesses that are clipped over the back so they could slip off easily.

Harness

Easy off Harness

 


 

Other harnesses use the same concept of using the front o-ring, but are far less adjustable and much more difficult to get a correct sizing on. 


 


Additional note if you have tried one of these tools paired with DIY training and have not seen results so your now wondering about tools like gentle leaders, remote collars, choke chains or prong collars please contact a local professional trainer for specific recommendations for your pet.  We do NOT recommend these tools without professional guidance.  

Check out our blog on the best tools for pulling!!

 


Best Dog Books by Category

great dog books

I will occasionally have a student that is so excited to help their dog be better behaved that they want to do some reading at home.  With the cold weather rolling in there couldn’t be a better time to snuggle up with your dog and read a good book.

I have compiled a list of a few of my favorite recommendations for dog training books. I ended up having so many favorites that I felt I needed to split them into categories so you could find them easier.

Free Audio Books:

Okay if you don’t already know about HOOPLA the free online audio book ap you should check it out. If you’re busy like me you might not have time to sit down and read a good book, but this is a great alternative.  Link to Hoopla  Here are my three favorites; some of the other ones were a little dry.

Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar:  This book had loads of great content and Ian Dunbar keeps the read entertaining this is perfect for a new puppy parent

Dog Training Revolution by Zac George: I like Zak George’s training style and I have been following him on youtube for years. This book is great for any dog owner.

Lucky Dog Lessons Train Your Dog in 7 Days by Brandon McMillan: This is absolutely perfect for a owner who just adopted a dog.

Puppy Books:

Before and After Getting Your Puppy by Dr. Ian Dunbar: As I mentioned before I LOVE this book. This book has great content without being dry or boring.

Puppy Training For Kids: If you want your puppy to grow up to be a dog that listens to the kids in the home the kids have to practice with the puppy too. This is a great book to get them involved.  If you are looking for more ideas for your kids to get involved with puppy, click here

Perfect Puppy in 7 Days by Sophia Yin: This is a top favorite read of mine. The way it’s written is done so that it is not only easy to follow, but contains good content.

Adopted dog books:

Juvenile Delinquent Dog by Sue Brown: I bought this book directly from Sue Brown and it is wonderful! It is easy to follow and written in a way that you can flip right to the problem that you are having with your dog or like I did read it cover to cover.

Dog Training In 10 Minutes A Day: 10-Minute Games To Teach Your Dog New Tricks by Kyra Sundance: This book is a great book to motivate you to help your new dog learn how to be the best companion he can be. It offers short exercises you can follow so you wild new adoptee’s training can feel a little less overwhelming.

Don’t Shoot the Dog by Karen Pryor: I loved it It’s not as explanatory as Donaldson’s “The Culture Clash,” but it’s a great how-to novel. After reading this book you’ll be clicker training your dog, horse and betta fish like a pro!

Behavior Problem Books:

Click to Calm Healing the Aggressive Dog by Emma Parsons: This book is great, even if you don’t have a aggressive dog this is so full of helpful tips and trick and goes a long way in helping understand the mind of a dog that is struggling with behavior problems.

Fired up, Freaked Out and Frantic by Laura VanArendonk Baugh: This book is excellent! Her way of writing, the images in her language, and the diagrams make this book really stand out; there’s no way to misunderstand the concepts she’s presenting.

Do you have a favorite dog training book?  If you do we would love to hear about it from you!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Training Tools & Pulling 

As a professional dog trainer and as a trainer who has crossed over from old school training methods I can tell you that it makes even trainers who use adverse methods skin crawl when they hear people say “it’s a great tool if you use it correctly.”


Why? You ask….. 

90% of people who use these tools do not know how to properly fit them or even properly put them on. This is the most basic step in using any training tool.

 Now, I want them to convince me that they’re using a prong collar correctly when it isn’t even on your dog correctly?


It is really hard to permanently scar a dog mentally, create major behavior problems, or create anxious behavior with positive training methods.

I would say 85-90 percent of collars I see while out in public are improperly fit. How do they know how to properly use it if they can’t fit it on their dog? Correct timing that can often takes years to master and tools like prong collars, gentle leaders, and e-collars must be used correctly to be effective.

To correctly use this type of training tool one must haves perfect timing, a strong understanding of training methods comma and a wonderful ability to read a dog once they have learned all this seldom do they need these types of Correction devices.

I often find that when somebody is looking at buying these types of tools and you ask them why they need it their answer is often well, my dog pulls really bad on walks and I was hoping it would help, or my dog lunges at other dogs and I was hoping it would help.

Here is the truth. When I ask these people who want their dogs to walk well on leash, “if you say heel in the house holding something her really wants, does your dog come to your left side and sit?” they often answer, “no”.

If you answered “no”, my question for you is why would you punish a dog for not preforming a behavior you haven’t taught him? If he cannot perform a heel in the house without distraction why would you punish him for not being able to do it outside on a walk with the presence of distraction like squirrels and other dogs? This doesn’t sound very fair to me.

No tool should ever replace good dog training, especially not one that can have adverse side effects.

Here is a list of my favorite pulling tools and how to use them click here

Positive dog training

Focused Heel Flat Collar

Benefits of Hand Feeding

 

Hand-feeding is a very important element to the foundation of training your dog. It isn’t necessary for all dogs, but it most definitely can help with all dogs.

Who do I recommend hand feeding to? Well, the answer to that is everyone. Hand feeding your dog is like putting primer on before you paint.   If you’ve adopted a new dog it helps to lay the foundation so that your dog is ready to learn and helps to quickly develop a bond.  It also increases  work ethic which makes training much easier.


When a dog’s life depends on it because of the lack of socialization or a lack of training hand feeding is no longer optional. A dog that growls at people in the home, a dog with a history of aggression or a dog with extreme fear would all be examples of a dog that hand feeding maybe a requirement of successful behavior treatment.


Dog food has monetary value to dogs. No, I don’t mean dogs go shopping at Petco with bags of kibble, but imagine that a piece of kibble is the equivalent to a $1 bill, a moist training treat is the equivalent to a $10 bill and a piece of diced hot dog is the equivalent to a $100 bill. 
Now, imagine I asked you to run 10 ft for $10 would you do it?

The answer may vary depending on what you’re willing to do for that amount of money. Okay, now I’m asking you to run 10 miles for $10. Chances are if you said “yes” the first time you’re going to say “no” to the second time.

Just like humans, dogs vary on what they’re willing to do for different dollar amounts. In humans we refer to how hard somebody is willing to work for a specific dollar amount as work ethic. Now imagine that there is a college student whose parents give them an unlimited amount of allowance. How hard do you think that college student would work if they were asked to go get a job at McDonald’s versus somebody who had no other source of income?

Feeding out of a food bowl is the equivalent of a free financial allowance. You can bet that this free allowance will affect your dog’s work ethic. That’s okay for some dogs. Some dogs have a naturally high work ethic and will do a lot for just a tiny treat or a tiny piece of kibble, but if the dog has a major behavior problem or struggling with socialization your dog will need every ounce of work ethic we can get. 


Handfeeding doesn’t have to be one kibble at a time.  You can handfeed a handful at a time if you are in a hurry. 

 


​Socializing Puppy to the World

 

Recently I went to a dog show where I actually had enough time to sit and watch the other competitors.  The show offered conformation, temperament testing, bite work and obedience.  The temperament testing is especially fun.  You are not given any information as to what will be involved in the temperament testing, so you can’t practice for it.  This year test included obstacles such as heeling over a wooden pallet and having your dog stand on tire. While watching the temperament testing it  was clear obedience skills had been taught, but it was apparent to me how to many breeders, trainer and pet owners are skipping one of the most fun, easy and critical parts of creating a solid dog environmental confidence building.  
 
At Bennett Canine Training we encourage puppy owners to try new obstacles each week.   We want to make sure our dogs are comfortable in a number of scenarios whether you’re getting on an elevator, walking across the slippery floor or getting your dog onto a scale at the vet clinic environmental confidence-building plays a role as how confident your dog is in the future. Dogs need to be comfortable  in the world around them or won’t matter how much time you spend teaching obedience. 
 
Here is a check list for getting your dog confident: 
Playgrounds, try to go when there are less then 4 kids playing.  Yes, we know you want to expose your dog to kids, but if there’s 25 kids on the playground your puppy is going to be overwhelmed.  Allowing your puppy to become overwhelmed would do more harm then good.  


 Box stores, such as Home Depot or Murdoch’s Farm.  Again,  you don’t go when they are busy. Your puppy is already going to be exposed to automatic open doors, slippery floors, bright lights and if you’re smart you’ll find some obstacles in the store like encouraging your puppy to jump on a rolly cart or look for treats under some shelves. Plus, the employees and customers shopping will want to meet your puppy too. 


 
The Great Outdoors, pull up Google Maps and find a lake that you can hike to. Make sure that it is not too far. Most young puppies can’t keep up on Long hikes. When introducing your puppy to water use toys and treat and don’t force your puppy into the water. Let them wade around and get comfortable. If you have an older dog they may follow your older dog into the water. Encourage them to walk across Fallen logs and balance on rocks.  


 
Livestock, we recognize that not everybody has access to livestock. If you look online you can find some sort of livestock event near you or at least close enough you can make a day trip out of it. If there’s a horse show in your area bring your puppy. Keep your puppy on a leash and keep it close to you. Bring lots of treats and be respectful of livestock’s space. A lot of livestock owners aren’t going to watch your puppy to close so make sure you ask first. 


  
Machinery,  many adult dogs are not comfortable around loud machinery. It is important to get your dog really comfortable with these types of things. You never know if you’ll be at a dog show and a tractor will go by.  Taking your puppy to Harley Dealership, truck stop or lumber yard would all be great options to introduce your puppy to focusing on you around machinery.  


If your puppy ever seems overwhelmed during this process don’t push your puppy.  Allow your puppy to observe from father away from what is scaring him.  If you still see fear or fear is lasting for more then one week please contact a professional dog trainer to help you with the process. 


Getting your dog into theses environments will go a long way in helping to ensure you have a great pet that can enjoy going places with you or to have a outstanding working or trial dog.  Don’t skip this important step and be sure to have fun and get creative.   

Dog bite, now what?

I wanted to share this correspondence with everybody I changed the name of the dog but the incident remains the same. All too often I see people who have a situation that occurs with their dog and they chop it up to a series of unfortunate events.

Here’s the question


“Need some advice….
We got a court summons because “YaYa” snapped at two annoying kids at Lowe’s while I was paying and she was sitting by me on leash and the she may have broken skin. I didn’t see what I’d expect to look like a bite mark, just a dot. Mom ended up calling the police because of the bite.

What do I do now? 
I’d like know if and how I can get this dropped as “Yaya” ‘s not aggressive.  “


You probably aren’t going to get it dropped especially since the dog broke the skin and there is enough evidence to support your dog acted aggressive at this time.  Thus the bite.

I would suggest you take it as an opportunity to get a little extra training with your dog. I’m not saying that your dog is aggressive, but if he’s barking at people it probably wouldn’t hurt to get a little extra control of him especially now that he has a record. 
You know that if somebody calls back in Animal Control is going to have a history of your dog’s bite now. It’s going to be hard to explain to a judge if he asks why didn’t you do anything after the last incident.




“So, do you think I should record a video of “Yaya” Playing with kids in the neighborhood?”

 The thing is even if you have a Canine Good Citizen on your dog and it is preceived  to act aggressively in public. 

The judge isn’t going to care if he gets along with your neighbors kids or any other kids.

If you look at the summons it says that your dog is accused of acting that way on a specific date and time and at a specific location. 

You’re not going to get out of a speeding ticket by taking a video of you not speeding through a school zone on a separate day and time then the ticket occurred on.  A dog ticket is viewed the same way.

Your dog’s behavior is only in question for the date and time on the face of the summons. Unless you have witnesses or security footage that shows your dog behaving like an angel during the time he was accused of acting this way then it’s going to be hard to fight. Your job isn’t to convince the judge that it didn’t happen, especially if it did happen. Your job is to convince the judge that moving forward you’re going to take actions to ensure that this won’t happen in the future. 


This is a good opportunity to have a professional evaluate the situation and come up with a specific plan to prevent future bites with your dog.


“Is there anything else I should do?”


You will want to make sure that your dog is on a 10-day home quarantine if he actually did bite the skin on somebody. 


You want to make sure that your dog is current on whatever licensing your city or state requires which will always include a rabies vaccination at least here in the states. 

Make sure that your dog cannot escape the backyard.

If you decide to continue taking your dog into public places make sure that your dog is leashed and keep an eye open for people approaching your dog who look like they may want to pet. 

It also is worth considering a basket muzzle, but your trainer can talk more in depth with you about that.